And now when clients gone home, weather got stable, I am here at the
Ratsek hut. I climbed solo Polyak route for the first time and my
backpack was heavy but quiet OK for climbing using
Maestri technique (used for solo
climbing).
Daylight hours have become shorter so I had to use my
headlamp to get to the route. It was very cold and I didn’t feel up to
climbing first time but then on the first rope which was 50% of artifical climbing not always safe, so I got possibility to get warm
and even perspired from time to time, cold indeed. First rope took one
hour and a half it was some kind of surprise I experienced it would not
be so long, there were 7 more ropes before ad they are not easy too. I
seemed to don’t have time for Kuzmenko route today, pity. There are a
lot artifical climbing parts on Kuzmenko route too and this is great
loss of time as well.
But further it turned to be easier; I found some logical variants which
I couldn’t find first time when climbed with partner. And above all I
found easier way of climbing the upper approach! As a result I climbed
the route for 4 hour 20 minutes. At one stroke I thought about Kuzmenko
route, why I should waste this day, and also this is good opportunity
not to hike from hut to the route twice.
Baichechekey peak, routes Kuzmenko (left), Polyak (right)
Hiking to the Kuzmenko route beginning took me 2 hours, and I began
right in the sun at t12.30. I tossed off precious bottle with kissel
and head up for the sequel to my adventure with thoughts that it was
the training for climbing the first my 5B route in this season. It was
difficult to climb I concentrated on accurate climbing in order not to
make something wrong due to growing tiredness. Thus without haste at
18:30 I climbed to the top of the “Ship” (the tower on the upper part
of Kuzmenko route).
At parting one of my
friends gave me a
surprise it got stuck in a crack and made me really nervous as soon as
it was just last meter of the wall, some abuse and damns helped me to
solve the problem, it is always like this! When you are already on the
way down in your dreams there is something that stops you and reminds
about the reality.
By the 20.00 absolutely unable to speak owing to overtiredness I
descended to the Ratsek hut. According to plan tomorrow is a day of
rest combined with hiking to my next aim route to Semenov-Tien-Shansky
peak. I have always wanted to climb Nikiforenko route there, in opinion
of other climbers it was very easy 5B route.
I could wake up only at 13.00, all my body ached and refused to move.
Nikiforenko route is mixed so I had to add some more equipment to my
quiet heavy backpack. I hardly made myself move to the “Uchitel” hut,
but surprisingly came there fast enough. “Uchitel” hut is my best, it
is happy place where I would prefer to stay, drink beer and get lost in
quiet contemplation, it is almost impossible to think about rough
mountaineering.
Overall this is a place of paradoxes and lack of
coincidence, where I always feel well and hearty.
And now I left this cozy home and at 5.00 in the morning came to the
Nikiforenko arête. By 6.00 I climbed ice and it had begun. First rope
from ice was awful, and as usual first time I climbed wrong direction.
Steep gloomy choss flatten me and put me off climbing further. Messing
about for an hour trembling with fear I drag myself out on the ledge
with good sling. Well I follow the route at least. I changed my boots
to climbing shoes and struggling with fear climbed further. In one and
a half rope I rest on quiet interesting place where I became agitated
about my vitally important organs but thanks to magic anchors
everything was all right.
Semenov Tien-Shansky peak, Nikiforenko route
I climbed to the next ledge and realized that I was fooling around. Why
the devil I am climbing using Maestri technique with this heavy
backpack! This part of route looks completely like approach. I lose my
force and waste my time! I took a rope and further climbed in usual
solo technique. It was just in time, next part of the route was the
most difficult, and abundance of equipment left confirmed it.
When I got the 4th grade difficulty part of the route I suddenly found
that weather was getting bad. As usual it began from the Suusamyr
valley. What a bad luck, I felt tired and there were a lot to climb
ahead, but if bad weather catches me I won’t be able to do anything at
all. So I did all my best trying to climb to the upper approach till
the rain or snow (who knows what will come). I was absolutely sure that
it exists, because when I watched the route from the hut I saw big
steep rock up there. How long is it? What difficulty it is? I don’t
know. Rocks become easier and I could climb about 50 meters with
backpack.
Overhead appeared the upper approach. Aye-aye it was extremely steep!
Meanwhile snow began – this is not the best friend here in Ala-Archa.
But anyway I was just at the approach. Fortunately it appeared to be
not so long and with good holds. Cut-loose dihedral was dry even in
snowfall and being afraid about 1 hour I got to flat part of the route.
Hurray! I climbed this route for 13 hours! It was not very fast but
anyway I was very happy. Though I hoped for the better after 13 routes of 5A grade in this season. But 5B is much more difficult surely and we
should never forget about it.
While changing my clothes I warmed up some tea and eat, downclimb at night takes a lot of strength.
In the morning I could get to the Ratsek hut only, I was wiped out. Day
passed by in half asleep to the accompaniment of champing stoat that
turned to be concentrated milk-fancier. But this true tiredness after
the real Route was so pleasant to me! Even this arm pain was great.
Straight this time you know next step to an unattainable apex of
technique was done.
