As Messner said: “Idea should mature”, it takes time to make up your mind for solo first ascent along this route I found it when tried to climb Popov route solo in 2006. That time I got lost and found very steep rocks that assure me about their virginity. Later when I learnt lots of literature and photos I realized it was right. And in January 2009 I managed to climb this route. This my first own route in Ala-Archa and Ak-Sai its difficulty is TD+/ED.

This idea had settled in my head since that time when I read an article about Yurii Lishaev (Fantik) in one of the Risk journal issue – I wanted to follow his record and try to climb some routes one by one in Ala-Archa gorge. This idea didn’t leave me it harassed me and forced to finding suitable routes. So at least I choose my favorite Baichechekey peak, first time I decided to climb Polyak and Kuzmenko routes (good climbing routes with parts of artifical climbing, they are not for rock running as Shvab route) in one day, and next would be Nikiforenko route on Semenov-Tien-Shansky peak.

It is the end of the season; my beloved is waiting for me at the Issyk-Kul and I am waving my hand to the helicopter which takes the rest of North Inylchek base camp out. There are usual storm on the top of Khan-Tengry Peak and annoying return just from the ridge of Pobeda Peak in order to save clients life left behind. And my long-expected Rubicon ahead, this is a frontier the only loophole to a peaceful life left myself. Five years ago after the unsuccessful attempt of climbing the North Face of Khan-Tengry that had finished with my fall, broken arms, and selfrescue there was always a thorn in my side – I knew it is possible to climb it solo!

When I was 11 I’ve decided to be a mountaineer. This was caused by well known that time French film “Death of a Guide”. Even my hard intension to be a pilot was beaten in minute, despite the fact that I watched soviet movie “Crew” (a film about feat of pilots) much more times than “Death of a Guide”. Behind the window of our tiny flat, with the great Sokol (falcon) mount) wings raised Putorana plateau.